Havelis

Havelis Review

Outside the fort, about 1½ km (1 mi) from the Gopa Chowk entrance, is a string of five connected havelis built by the Patwa brothers in the 1800s. The Patwas were highly influential Jain merchants back when Jaisalmer was an independent principality. The Patwa brothers forbade the repetition of any motifs or designs between their mansions, so each is distinctive.

Two of the five havelis are now owned by the government and open to the public, and you can explore the interiors of the others by offering a small fee (not more than Rs. 50) to the residents. Three havelis are noteworthy in this area. One, Patwon Ki Haveli, is arguably the most elaborate and magnificent of all Jaisalmer's havelis; in addition to exquisitely carved pillars and expansive corridors, one of the apartments in this five-story mansion is painted with beautiful murals. The 19th-century Nathmal Ki Haveli was carved by two brothers, each working independently on his own half; the design is remarkably harmonious, though you can spot small differences. The interior of the Salim Singh Ki Haveli, built in about 1815, is in sad disrepair, but the mansion's exterior is still lovely—it has an overhanging gallery on its top floor. Note the havelis' ventilation systems: the projecting windows and stone screens keep them cool even in the searing summer months.