This century-old, somber red fort in the dusty village of Luni is now a Heritage Hotel getaway with spacious courtyards and delightful rooms that have small, arched windows called jharokhas, Rajasthani-style furniture and fabrics, and old photographs. Many of the small rooms have stairways leading to an alcove or to the bathroom. The waterwheel—now a fountain in the bar—was originally used to channel water around the fort. The restaurant has a fixed-price Indian menu. Pros: charming fort stay, good value. Cons: far from anything.
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