Rajasthan and Gujarat

Steeped in tales of chivalry and romance, and famous for its striking desert landscape and colorful festivals, Rajasthan is one of India's best-loved regions. From its legendary cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, and Jaisalmer, built by the mighty Rajput warriors, to its indigenous tribal and artisan communities, Rajasthan is a unique combination of royal and tribal India. The variety of its landscape is unparalleled: the region is packed with awe-inspiring forts, sparkling palaces, soothing lakes and gardens, and exquisite temples and shrines. The crafts and folk art produced here are world-renowned. Once called Rajputana ("abode of kings"), this vast land consisted of more than 22 princely states before they were consolidated into modern Rajasthan in 1956. Each state was ruled by a Rajput, an upper-caste Hindu warrior-prince, and the Rajputs were divided into three main clans: the Suryavanshis, descended from the sun, the Chandravanshis, descended from the moon, and the Agnikuls who had been purified by ritual fire. When they were not fighting among themselves for power, wealth, and women, the Rajputs built the hundreds of forts, palaces, gardens, and temples that make this region so enchanting.

For centuries, many Hindu Rajputs valiantly resisted invasion, including attempts by the Muslim Moghuls. Their legendary codes of battle emphasized honor and pride, and they went to war prepared to die. When defeat on the battlefield was imminent, the strong Rajput women of Chittaur would perform the rite of jauhar, throwing themselves onto a flaming pyre en masse rather than live with the indignity of capture. With the prominent exception of the princes of Mewar, major Rajput states such as Jaipur, Bikaner, Bundi, and Kota eventually stopped fighting and built strong ties with the Moghuls. The Moghul emperor Akbar was particularly skilled at forging alliances with the Rajputs; he offered them high posts in his darbar, or court, and sealed the deal with matrimonial ties. (He himself married two Rajput princesses.) Those kingdoms who sided with Akbar quickly rose in importance and prosperity.

Maharaja Man Singh of Jaipur was the first to marry his sister to Akbar. As the emperor's brother-in-law and trusted commander-in-chief, Man Singh led Moghul armies to many a victory. Both rulers benefited immensely, as a traditional saying indicates: "Jeet Akbar ki, loot Man Singh ki" ("The victory belongs to Akbar, the loot to Man Singh").

In addition to securing wealth, these marriages opened the gates of the royal Rajput households to the Moghuls' distinctive culture. The same people who initially sacrificed their lives to resist the Moghuls quickly adapted themselves to Moghul domination and started borrowing heavily from Moghul aesthetics. Skilled craftsmen from the Moghul courts were enticed to Rajasthan to start craft schools, fomenting what would become a golden age of Indian art and architecture. The Moghuls' influence in Rajasthan is still visible in everything from food to palace architecture, from intricate miniature paintings to new musical styles, and from clothing to the tradition of purdah (the seclusion of women from males or strangers, or the act of covering the head and face with a veil).

The beginning of the 18th century marked the decline of the Moghul period, and with it came the decline of the Rajputs. The incoming British took advantage of the prevailing chaos. Not only did they introduce significant administrative, legal, and educational changes in Rajasthan, they also exposed the Rajputs to new levels of excess. The British introduced polo and other equestrian sports, the latest rifles and guns, shikar (hunting) camps, Belgian glass, English crockery, French chiffons, Victorian furniture, European architecture, and—eventually—fancy limousines. The influence extended to Rajput children: sons were sent to English universities, and daughters to the best finishing schools in Switzerland.

While the rest of India launched their struggle for independence, many Rajput princes ended up defending the Raj. Unwilling to give up their world of luxury and power, they did their best to suppress rebellion outside their own kingdoms by sending their soldiers to help the British forces. When India won independence, the Rajput princes and kings were forced to merge their kingdoms into one state as part of the new nation, but they were allowed to keep the titles to their palaces, forts, lands, jewels, and other sumptuous possessions. Since then, however, the government has taken over much of their land and many of their palaces and forts. Stripped of feudal power, many of the maharajas became hotel owners, while others have turned their properties over to leading hotel chains. A few have become paupers or recluses.

Rajasthan's heritage goes well beyond the maharajas, however. The Marwari trading community is known far and wide for its dynamic entrepreneurial spirit and its ornate havelis (mansions with interior courtyards). Seminomadic indigenous tribes, such as the Bhils, Meenas, Garasias, and Sahrias, create a rich canvas of folk life and folklore, their art, dance, music, and drama contributing much to Rajasthan's vibrant, festive culture. The exquisite craftwork of the state's rural artisan communities—leatherwork, textiles, puppetry, and miniature painting—is admired in India and around the world. The presence of saints and spiritual leaders from a variety of religious communities has also, over the years, made Rajasthan a trove of shrines, temple art, and religious architecture.

Cultures within Rajasthan vary in everything from the colors of their sandstone buildings to the languages they speak. Though five principal Rajasthani dialects are spoken here (Marwari, Mewari, Dhundari, Mewati, and Hadauti), a local saying has it that you hear a new language every 4 km. And despite the overwhelming spread of both English and Hindi, villagers continue to maintain the rich literary traditions, both oral and written, of their local tongues. Also regionally significant—and more noticeable to the average traveler—are the brilliant colors of the women's lehangas (long skirts with separate veils), designed to stand out against the starkness of the desert. Women also wear elaborate jewelry, and Rajasthani men are famous for their turbans—called saafas—which vary in style from region to region and caste to caste; the style of wearing high turbans with a tail is preferred by Rajputs, for instance, while pagris (compact turbans, often orange) are worn by businessmen. Even facial hair is unique in these parts: Rajputs, in particular, sport long, Salvador Dali-like handlebar moustaches. Although Rajasthan has many social problems, most notably widespread rural poverty and low literacy rates, its cities and people remain lively. Cultural festivals, crafts fairs, and religious gatherings take place throughout the year. With its bright colors and rich folk traditions, and the sheer variety of experiences it has to offer the traveler, Rajasthan easily earns its place as one of India's most popular tourist destinations.

The region's natural variety is also compelling. The Aravalli Hills are a natural divider between northwest and southeast Rajasthan. Arid sand dunes characterize the northwest: the sizzling Thar Desert is referred to in the ancient Hindu epic Mahabharata as the Maru-Kantar, "the region of death." The landscape of the southeast, however, belies Rajasthan's image as a desert state: craggy hills, lush forests, and shimmering lakes are typical. A rich array of birds, animal life, and insect species makes its home in each environment, and these may be seen in the several wildlife preserves of the state.

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