Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer seems like a mirage: its array of sandstone buildings are surrounded by the stark Thar Desert and illuminated in a gold hue by the penetrating sun. The ancient medieval city is defined by its carved spires and palaces, and the massive sandcastlelike fort that towers over the imposing wall that encircles the town. Jaisalmer is a remote and unusual city; it's out of the way, but it's worth it if you want to see a different side of India, and definitely if you want to take a camel safari.

Founded in 1156 by Rawal Jaisal, a descendent of the Yadav clan and a Bhatti Rajput, Jaisalmer lies near the extreme western edge of Rajasthan, about 160 km (about 100 mi) east of the Pakistan border. It began as a trade center: from the 12th through the 18th centuries, rulers amassed their wealth from taxes levied on caravans passing through from Africa, Persia, Arabia, and other parts of Central Asia. Smugglers were also known to frequent Jaisalmer to work the profitable opium trade. The rise of Bombay (modern-day Mumbai) as a major trading port in the 19th century, however, eclipsed Jaisalmer's role as a staging post.

Today Jaisalmer attracts travelers attracted by the mystery and harsh, remote charm of the desert. A welcome change from crowded, polluted cities, the city is an architectural masterpiece that never fails to amaze. At night the fort is bathed in golden light, which illuminates the seemingly impregnable walls; most of the buildings inside are made out of yellow sandstone. Jaisalmer is also known for its ornate 19th-century havelis—mansions with facades so intricately carved the stonework looks like lace. It's also worth wandering through the mazelike alleys and bazaars, though the markets have a bad reputation among tourists. Expect some harassment, especially if you're a woman traveling solo. With clean lanes, no traffic, and few crowds, Jaisalmer is easily covered on foot. Camel safaris are a good way to see the desert. These are great fun, but choose one carefully—don't skimp and choose a cheap outfitter. Take a light scarf to protect your face in case of a sandstorm.

Spend at least two nights in Jaisalmer. Nothing is more romantic than a Thar Desert sunset, and the city's cultural festivities—the heart and soul of its people—begin at night. For the traveler, these can reach intoxicating levels of passion: around blazing bonfires, dancers and musicians gather together and re-create the ancient traditions of Rajasthan. To get an even bigger dose of it, visit during the Desert Festival, in late January and early February. You'll see music, dance, camel races, turban-tying contests, and craft bazaars with regional traders.