The Maldharis & the Siddis

Living deep inside the Gir National Park and Wildlifie Sanctuary is an unusual group of tribal people (known as "tribals" in India): the traditional cattle-herding group known as the Maldharis. Maal means "possessions," in this case cattle, so their name loosely and ironically translates as "those who have enough possessions." Numbering about 1,000, this group coexists fearlessly with the lions and leopards, tending their buffalo and never straying far from this extremely primitive environment—no electricity, phones, or formal education. They are not comfortable in an urban environment; the older folk do not like using public transport, and prefer camels or walking when they venture out of the park. Belonging to a mixed bunch of castes, their style of life unites them into a group who make good earnings from selling buffalo milk. (As they are vegetarian, they do not sell their buffalo for meat.) Living in the park, their costs are low and they invest much of their money in gold jewelry. The Maldharis are generally skilled at protecting their buffalos from lions, but in the event that one is killed, the Indian government gives them compensation.

About 15 km (9 mi) and 35 km (22 mi), respectively, from Sasan town are two isolated villages—Shirvan and Jhambuwaria—where Siddis (also called Hashbis) live. Siddis, who live in large numbers in the Junagadh district, trace their ancestry to East Africa. Though they speak Gujarati, dress in Indian style, are Muslim, and eat local Muslim-style food, they have marked African features that make them stand out in this countryside. The small numbers of Siddis that live in Sasan and other parts of Junagadh are aware of their roots, but the Shirvan and Jhambuwaria Siddis are less conscious of this, and merely believe themselves to be local tribals. These Africans, it is documented, were sold to India by Arab and Portuguese traders and arrived in the subcontinent between the 11th and 19th century. They were well known for their musical and dancing skills, and a large population of Siddis worked for the Nawab of Junagadh. Even today they have distinctive dances and play the dhol (a traditional style of drum) with great verve. A few of them are famous for their tantric or shaman powers, and the terminally ill, mentally disadvantaged, and those believed possessed are brought to them for cures. If you are interested in an excursion to meet either the Maldharis or Siddis, your hotel or a local travel agent ought to be able to set one up.