Sun Temple

Sun Temple Review

Legend shrouds the towering sandstone Sun Temple, or Black Pagoda, so called because of the dark patina that has covered it over the centuries, though much of that black has now been cleaned off to reveal the stone's natural color. Built over 12 years by Ganga dynasty monarch King Narasimha (probably to enhance his prestige) in the 13th century, the Sun Temple takes the shape of the sun god Surya's chariot rising majestically from the sea. It's a wonder of architecture and engineering. Surya, according to Vedic texts, was considered the god of gods, the highest light. For centuries the temple lay, forgotten, virtually erased from the world, buried under tons of sand, and was only unearthed in the last century bit by bit. Its size alone astonishes. The word Konark is derived from kona, or "corner," and ark, or "sun." Today, only half the main temple and the audience hall remain to suggest the Sun Temple's original shape, but the complex once had a dancing hall, an audience hall, and a tremendous tower that soared to 227 feet. By 1869 the tower had fallen to ruin, and the audience hall had to be filled with stone slabs and sealed off to prevent its collapse. The temple's location near coastal sand is unique, but the briny air and the softness of the underlying dunes have taken their toll.

The Sun Temple was designed in the form of a chariot, with 24 wheels pulled by seven straining horses. Every last one of its surfaces is intricately carved with some of the most fantastic sculpture in India depicting the "carnival of life" from hunting to childbirth, images of war, dancers and musicians, and of course erotic pairings almost lyrically carved. Many panels also depict the range of graceful Odissi dance poses. Every structural feature is significant: the seven horses represent the seven days of the week, the 24 wheels are the 24 fortnights of the Indian year, and the eight spokes of each wheel are the eight pahars, eight segments of the 24 hour span which was the way ancients divided day and night.

Try to arrive between 7 and 8 am, before the busloads of pilgrims and other tourists show up. If you cannot make it early then come with some water, a hat, comfortable footwear, and only a light bag—walking about in the hot sun for an hour plus is tiring business. The Archaeological Survey of India provides guides, but ask to see an identification badge, as many less-informed freelance guides are also eager to take you around. The going rate is Rs. 60 per person. A free museum (open daily 10-5) has sculptures found in the ruins.