Orissa Sights

Lingaraj Temple Complex

Lingaraj Temple Complex Review

This giant and especially majestic 11th-century shrine is considered the ultimate in Orissan temple architecture by Hindu devotees and art historians alike and is one of the most prominent temples in this region. A world in itself, with some 100 smaller votive shrines, this Shiva temple sits in a huge walled compound that teems with activity and is a great illustration of the vibrancy of the Hindu faith. The temple's main deity is a granite Swayambhu linga, a symbol of Shiva. (Literally, linga means "self-established," indicating it was a stone that naturally occurred and was identified as a deity.) Lingaraj is partially a Vishnu temple, with idols of Vishnu within the inner sanctum as well. Linga are worshipped as Harihara, a combined Vishnu-Hindu deity. This is unusual, since traditionally temples are either Shaivite or Vaishnavite, but Lingaraj welcomes the whole pantheon of gods, showcasing harmony of the period in which the temple was built. Sadly, non-Hindus are barred the temple, and thus from experiencing the complex and intriguing rituals of this temple, like the daily ceremony of bathing the lingain milk and feeding it rice, curries, bananas, coconuts, sweets, and a bhang (marijuana beverage). From the small, raised platform 100 yards away, non-Hindus must strain to see the profuse exterior carvings, a high point of Hindu decorative art; alas, without binoculars, most of the details will elude you. Dating from about 1050, the temple originally consisted of only the porch and shrine; the dancing hall and hall of offerings were added about 100 years later. The vimana (curvilinear tower), built without mortar, soars to a height of 147 feet. Note that many enterprising locals have for years been posting themselves at the foot of the platform stairs with a phony guest register and demanding a donation; the money goes straight into their pockets.

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