Raghurajpur

Less than two hours' drive from Bhubaneswar, and just 20 minutes from Puri is the village of Raghurajpur, where every thatch-roof dwelling houses a family of artisans (chitrakars). Their skills in stone-and-wood carving, talapatra (palm-leaf paintings—very complicated and extremely intricate art that must be seen to believed), and patachitra (fine drawings on silk or cloth treated to get a leathery effect) are passed down from one generation to almost every member of the next generation. As you leave the main road and arrive at this idyllic village, several overly friendly escorts will offer to lead you to their house for "just a look," and the process of choosing the art you would like to purchase can get a bit rushed. Visit some of the homes your self-appointed guides take you to but don't feel pressured to buy. Take your time and wander the few streets and appreciate the murals that adorn the walls, done by some of the village's best artists, and absorb the simplicity of this unique hamlet with its quaint huts, palm groves, and village square. (Actually, Raghurajpur consists of 6 to 8 villages clumped together.)

If you're interested, the artisans will demonstrate their processes. In the technique of patachitra, for which the town is especially known, everything is done the old-fashioned way, from rubbing the silk or other cloth with tamarind-seed gum and stones to give it a parchmentlike texture to executing fine strokes of color with dyes made from plants and crushed stones. The subjects of the paintings are usually stories from the epics. They are created in all sizes and for all budgets and are a rare chance to buy very fine art at extremely reasonable prices. Some of the larger murals that illustrate, in fine cameos, tales from mythology or depictions of the Jagannath Rath Yatra can cost upward of Rs. 12,000 though there are paintings to be had for as little as Rs. 300. As is the case everywhere in India, the prices are raised for travelers, but you can bargain down to less than you'd pay anywhere else; expect to pay in rupees. Most artisans welcome customers daily from around 9 to 1 and 3 to 8 or later. An enterprising child will probably offer to arrange a dance for you—a memorable way to end a visit—or you can arrange one in advance. Call (675/227-4359, 675/222-6440, 675/227-4553, or 675/227-4485. Or you can get in touch by e-mail chitrakara_raghurajpur@yahoo.com or contact any of the artisans on the list craftrevivaltrust.org/Artisans/002408.htm) to arrange a stay. You can stay overnight in a little house, built in 2004, to observe the creative process at length—or just enjoy the village life over the course of a typical day and night. For information, contact the OTDC (See the Orissa Essentials).