Still the residence of a well-to-do Varanasi family, this guest house has small, beautiful rooms with quirky charm—for example, there's a jungle painting and stone shrine (with goddess) you sleep under in Room 13—and a great veranda with tables overlooking the river and Asi Ghat. (The Rs. 1,200 rooms without air-conditioning are closest to the ghat's noises and are best avoided unless you're a heavy sleeper.) The hotel still feels homey, but you're also likely to come across one of the classical Indian concerts or lectures that are often held here. The dinners served under a galaxy of lamps and chandeliers are Brahmin-style vegetarian, but so delicious you won't miss a thing that's been left out. Book months ahead for peak season. Pros: the veranda is the best place in town to sit for hours and watch an endless stream of pilgrims and tourists. Cons: it's pretty noisy, and the narrow stairs leading to the front door make it difficult to access.
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