Shaniwarwada Palace

Shaniwarwada Palace Review

To experience the staunchly Maharashtrian quarters of the city, head to Shaniwarwada Palace in the heart of the old city. The palace, actually, no longer exists. Tall ramparts and imposing, two-story-high teak gates lined with enough spikes to ward off an army of elephants front an empty courtyard, once home to the beyond-your-wildest-imagination Shaniwarwada Palace. Built in the 18th century by the Maratha king Baji Rao I, the palace was destroyed less than 100 years later, after several fires. The premises aren't well maintained, but you can conjure your own images of the extravagant kingdom the Peshwas once ruled. The view from the ramparts of the palace gates is intriguing. Rocky outcrops (once foundation stones) in endless lawns are the only remnants of this seven-story royal residence that once was famous, near and far, for its Shish Mahal (glass house), hamam (palace bathroom), and Mastani Mahal (dancers' wing). The Palace of Music, known as the Nagarakhana, still survives. The Maharashtra Tourism board holds an English-language sound-and-light show at the palace, on the history of the Peshwas and Shivaji; tickets are available on the premises.