Elephanta Caves

Elephanta Caves Review

Exactly who carved these 7th-century cave temples on Elephanta Island? No one knows. We do know, however, that the island was originally called Gharapuri; the Portuguese renamed it Elephanta after they found a large stone elephant near their landing place. (The figure collapsed in 1814 and was subsequently moved to the far-off Victoria Gardens and reassembled.) Shortly before these temples were created, Mumbai experienced the golden age of the late Guptas, under whom the talents of artists had relatively free range. By that time the Sanskrit language had been finely polished, and under the court's liberal patronage, Kalidasa and other writers had helped incite a revival of Hindu beliefs. It was Shivaism—the worship of Shiva—that inspired the building of these temples.

The outside of the main cave consists of a columned veranda 30 feet wide and 6 feet deep, which you approach on steps flanked by sculptured elephants. The entire temple, carved out of the basalt hillside, is 130 square feet. The principle sculptures are on the southern wall at the back. The central recess in the hall contains the most outstanding sculpture, the unusual Mahesamurti, the Great Lord Shiva—an 18-foot triple image. Its three faces represent three aspects of Shiva: the creator (on the right), the preserver (in the center), and the destroyer (on the left).

Other sculptures near the doorways and on side panels show Shiva's usefulness. Shiva brought the Ganges River down to Earth, the story says, letting it trickle through his matted hair. He is also depicted as Yogisvara, lord of Yogis, seated on a lotus, and as Nataraja, the many-armed cosmic dancer. The beauty of this stonework lies in the grace, balance, and sense of peace conveyed in spite of the subject's multiple actions.

In winter the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) organizes a top-notch dance festival in this memorable setting. The island itself is quiet and picturesque, with light-green foliage and monkeys scampering about. The MTDC leads an excellent daily tour and runs a tiny restaurant on the island for refreshments and beer. Elephanta Island is not a good location for a picnic lunch; avoid carrying food or snacks with you because the herds of street-smart monkeys will harass you. Motor launches, one hour each way, depart daily every half hour from 9 to 2:30 from the Gateway of India and from noon to 5 from Elephanta Island, unless the sea is very choppy. It's not advisable to visit Elephanta during monsoon season.