Getting There & Around

Getting There & Around

Most international flights land in Trivandrum or Kochi. But the small Calicut airport also has flights coming from the Middle East and Sri Lanka. Kochi's international airport is about 40 km (25 mi) east of the city; abominable traffic can make it a two-hour trip. A taxi will cost about Rs. 500. The small airport in Trivandrum is 6 km (4 mi) west of the city center; taxis charge about Rs. 200 to get to the city and about Rs. 700 to reach Kovalam. Calicut's Karipur Airport is 23 km (14 mi) south of town; a cab will cost roughly Rs. 550.

Driving to Kerala is a good option. If you're coming from Tamil Nadu, the drive from Madurai along the Madurai-Kottayam Road is stunning. NH-17 runs along the coast from Mangalore south to Kochi, though it gets a little rough north of Calicut. Roads to the interior ghats (mountains) are often breathtaking: the landscape changes from the brilliant lime green of the rice fields to the rich, dark green of the tea plantations and jungle.

The most convenient way to get around Kerala is with a hired car and driver. The journey from Trivandrum to Kochi takes about five hours. Figure about Rs. 10 per km (½ mi) for a non-air-conditioned car and a halt charge of Rs. 150 per night. Shop around, and hire a car from a government-approved travel agency.

In Kochi, public ferries and private boats go between Fort Cochin, Willingdon Island, and Ernakulam throughout the day. Ernakulam's main boat jetty is south of the Taj Residency hotel. Boats leave for Fort Cochin roughly every half hour from 6 AM to 9 PM. There are frequent ferries to Mattancherry, and limited service to Embarkation Jetty, on Willingdon Island's eastern tip. Ferry rides cost only a few rupees.

In central Kerala boat cruises offer a fascinating look at the backwaters where people still live. Most houseboats are based in the Alleppey district. When booking an overnight stay on one, make sure it comes equipped with solar panels and air-conditioning or a fan, or you're in for a hot night. The going rate for a posh two-bedroom vessel with air-conditioning and meals included is roughly Rs. 14,000; a one-bedroom will run about Rs. 9,000.