Once the capital of the princely state of Mysore, this palace-rich city of roughly 900,000 inhabitants remains the official residence of the former royal family. The maharajas accomplished much in the way of arts and culture, developing palaces, temples, and schools, and supporting the traditional Mysore school of painting, with its slightly cherubic Hindu images and abundance of gold leaf. When you witness the fruits of their patronage, you'll understand why Prince Jayachamaraja Wodeyar (father of the current erstwhile prince, Srikandatta Wodeyar) was appointed the first actual governor of Karnataka in 1956, when the state was formed. Mysore was known for its progressivism during his reign.
Nicknamed the City of Palaces, Mysore's main attraction, the Mysore Palace, can be explored in a few hours, and if you can manage a visit to the Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel, the combination of the two will make your trip worthwhile. An evening visit to Brindavan Gardens is a nice way to experience the Indian fascination with kitschy but charming colored musical fountains.
Despite its opulent past, there's still not too much that's flashy or fancy about Mysore, at least not in the modern, commercial sense. There are relatively few places to wine and dine, and the streets are lined with far more dozing cows than boutiques. But the congenial climate and small-town surroundings, replete with leafy avenues, can make a trip to Mysore enchanting. Here you can admire (and buy) some of India's richest silks, woven with real gold, and other elements of an age-old spirit of elegance that endures. That elegance has been joined by the first glimmers of renewal, as more and more hi-tech companies have begun to open branches here, making it in some ways a satellite of Bangalore.