The capital of Himachal Pradesh, Shimla is perhaps best perceived as a gateway to the district of Kinnaur. If it's fresh mountain air and serenity you seek, don't spend more time than you need to here. The charms of Rudyard Kipling's city have faded: paint peels on Victorian structures, and mortar is left to crumble. Garish, large developments now dot the surrounding hills, and traffic lines the road in high season, sometimes causing delays on miles of switchbacks en route. The town is often packed with Indian families on holiday, and also attracts British travelers whose antecedents made an annual trip to this summer capital during the Raj.