Kinnaur

The Sutlej River runs through the eminently green district of Kinnaur, made up of the Baspa and Sangla valleys in the towering Kinnaur Kailash Range. Like Spiti, Kinnaur hides wonderful old Buddhist monasteries, but despite the proximity to Tibet, only the far eastern and northern, cold-desert parts of Kinnaur are Buddhist. The curved roofs of gompas reflect the transition of the landscape from Hinduism to Buddhism. Kinnauris are decked in green jackets, cummerbunds, hats teamed with shawls, and elaborate silver jewelry.

The Sangla Valley is magnificently dramatic, with orchards, burbling streams, and stupendous alpine landscapes. Day hikes, overnight treks, and jeep excursions are well worth the effort it takes to drive here from Shimla. Kinnaur was opened to travelers in 1992, and you still need an Inner Line Permit to travel beyond Rekong Peo to Puh en route to Spiti.