Loutolim is among Goa's prettiest villages, with lush paddy fields and tranquil village roads that lie under a canopy of forest trees. This is also a lovely area to view some fine examples of Goan-Portuguese architecture. There's not much by way of accommodations except for the charming Casa Susegad. If you are able to get a room, make Loutolim a stopover to experience nontouristy Goa and visit nearby spice plantations, the Brangaza house in Chandor, or the Miranda House—a well-preserved Goan country house. Lunch at one of Goa's most delightful restaurants, Fernando's Nostalgia, in the courtyard of the chef's house on the Ponda-Margao road, is a must if you venture this side.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More