Goa

Those who know India well will tell you that Goa, the smallest state in the Indian federation, is an anomaly—a territory that has Indian elements, but is decidedly its own entity, shaped by a unique set of circumstances and influences.

Goa's Hindu merchants flourished for centuries trading spices, silk, pearls, horses, and ideas with Arabs, East Africans, and Mediterranean cultures until its fortunes were profoundly altered by the arrival in 1510 of Affonso de Albuquerque, a Portuguese explorer and naval officer who wrestled the tiny realm from the hands of the Sultan of Bijapur. For the next 450 years the Portuguese exerted major pressures on Goan culture, language, and religion, not the least of which was converting the native Hindus and Buddhists to Catholicism by force. Ruling with an iron hand before, during, and after the rest of the Indian subcontinent was under the thumb of the British, they were finally driven out in 1961 in a land assault ordered by India's first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru.

The latest invaders to produce an undeniable influence on Goa's way of life, economy, and identity are the millions of foreign tourists who arrive year after year transporting contemporary lifestyles, Western values, and demands for ever more goods and services.

Accordingly, today's visitors find what some consider a paradise on earth: mile after mile of stunning beaches backed by palm forests and emerald green rice paddies; a distinctive cuisine forged by an exceptional blend of Indian and European traditions; and a local population who are generous to a fault and quick to return a smile, pat your arm, and offer assistance to anyone in need.

Although most Goans are poor by Western standards, they rank in the upper echelons of India's standards of living and literacy rates, prompting some travelers to refer to their experience here as "India Lite." Even so, the contrast between rich and poor, laborer and the middle class is still readily apparent. To wit: It's not uncommon to see houses made of plastic sheeting and palm fronds nestled in the shade of billboards advertising mutual funds, and the widening of major highways is likely to be accomplished by masses of barefoot men using pick-axes.

That said, Goa has more five-star resorts that match or surpass even the finest Western hotel chains in terms of comfort, amenities, and sheer indulgence than any other region in India. As a result, many tourists arrive at Goa's Dabolim Airport, are whisked to security-gated beach resorts and spend a week scarcely aware of being in India at all. Which is certainly a shame, because as a destination and an experience Goa has a lot to offer besides the sand and sea, including a rich Hindu heritage best seen at the temples in Ponda, striking Renaissance cathedrals in Old Goa, ancestral homes surrounding the ragtag southern city of Margao, and the capital city Panaji's Portuguese historic district, with its diverse shopping opportunities and urban energy.

Beach aficionados can happily chose from dozens of beaches that crowd the state's 35-mi coastline, depending on their mood or preferences. Those looking for seclusion can head north to Arambol Beach, nestled below steep cliffs and home to Goa's remaining hippie enclave, or to the remote southern beaches in Agonda. For nonstop action—dance raves set to thumping Goan trance music are the norm at night—partygoers should head for Baga in the north or Colva in the south.

In the end, Goa's charisma resides in its ability to be all things to all people: a tranquil retreat from modern life or party central, a resort spot in which to perfect a tan or a destination in which to explore India's Hindu heritage. And whatever you come here looking for it's assured you'll encounter more than you expected.

Monsoon Masala

Chances are you've never experienced anything like the monsoon in Goa. The downpours are heavy and sudden, and the drops so huge and close together it's as if someone is throwing buckets of water on you from a second floor window. The rain may last for days or a mere 30 minutes, disappearing as quickly as it came. Even so, if you're in Goa during a rainy spell, don't let it slow you down. Wear your flip-flops, bring an umbrella, and carry on as the Indians do.

Less »