The road south to the urban village of Hauz Khas is lined on both sides by ancient stone monuments, and the entire village is dotted with domed structures—the tombs of minor Muslim royalty from the 14th to the 16th centuries. At the end of the road is the tomb of Firoz Shah Tughlaq, who ruled Delhi in the 14th century. Hauz Khas means "Royal Tank," referring to the artificial lake visible from Firoz Shah's pillared tomb. The tank was actually built a century earlier by Allauddin Khilji as a water source for his nearby fort, then called Siri (the second city of Delhi). Back in the village, wander through the narrow lanes to experience a medley of old and new structures—expensive shops and art galleries in a medieval warren. Find your way to the gardens near the ruin of a madrassa at the back of the village. The kindly old gentleman often playing cards can sometimes be coaxed into an impromptu Urdu lesson. In the 1980s Hauz Khas was designated an upscale tourist destination, but of
late it more accurately aspires to emulate Manhattan's West Village. After exploring, stop for a meal at one of the village's restaurants, particularly Park Balluchi (in the Deer Park), Naivedyam, or Yeti. The Toddy Shop and the Coast Café, serves some of the best South Indian food this side of the country. "HKV" also has the popular TLR Café, which hosts live and DJ performances over the weekends—from reggae to rock bands and retro nights—and a new host of rooftop bars. There are a fair number of young, funky upcoming designers that have opened their stores here. The biggest store to look out for is White: a minimal, very cool multi-designer outlet, in the same building as the TLR.