Delhi's only Kashmiri restaurant is also one of its most beautiful, an art deco enclave with a tile floor, a spiral staircase leading nowhere, lamps in pinks and yellows, and a mixture of antique furniture and mirrors from various chor (thieves') bazaars. The bar is all dark wood and stained glass, and the salad bar is a 1927 Fiat roadster. Kashmiri food uses milder spices than many Indian cuisines, exemplified by mutton yakhni (simmered in a sauce of yogurt, cardamom, and aniseed), mutton mirchi korma (in a gravy of cardamom and cloves), and haaq, Kashmiri spinach cooked in its own juice. Try a tarami platter to sample several dishes, and punctuate your meal with kahwah, fragrant Kashmiri tea.
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