Heavenly Lake

Heavenly Lake Review

About a three-hour ride from Ürümqi is the not-to-be-missed lake, possibly the prettiest lake in China, surrounded by snow-sprinkled mountains. The water is crystal clear with a sapphire tint. In summer, white flowers dot the hillsides. Unfortunately, tourism has been leaving its ugly footprint. The lake's southern shore is crowded with tour groups posing for snapshots with Mount Bogda in the background. To better appreciate the lake's natural beauty, arrive before the hordes, or stay until after the last bus has departed.

Kazakh families still set up traditional felt tents along the shores of Heavenly Lake from early May to late October, bringing their horses, sheep, and cashmere goats. The Kazakh people have a long history as horse breeders and are known to be skilled riders.

Most foreign visitors stay with the amiable Rashit (138/9964-1550. www.rashityurt.com), who has been hosting tourists at his family yurt since 1980. For Y50, you get a spot in a cozy yurt and three freshly cooked if basic meals a day. They can also furnish horses and a guide for a day of riding around the lake. The sleeping quarters are communal, and there's no plumbing. However, you'll have a rewarding glimpse into the way your Kazakh hosts live.

From Ürümqi, day-tour buses (Y25 each way after bargaining plus Y100 entrance fee to the lake) to Heavenly Lake leave at 9:30 in the morning from a small street beside the north gate of People's Park (Renmin Gongyuan). You'll have from about noon to 6 pm to explore the lake, arriving back in the city at 8 pm. Tickets—usually available up until the bus leaves—can be purchased near the buses.