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Qinghai
A remote and sparsely populated province on the northeastern border of Tibet, Qinghai's sweeping grasslands locked in by icy mountain ranges are relatively unknown to most Chinese people. They tend to think of the province as their nation's Siberia, a center for prisons and work camps. Yet Qinghai shares much of the majestic scenery of Xinjiang combined with the rich culture of Tibet.
The opening of the railway that links Tibet with the rest of China in 2006 led to an influx of tourists to Qinghai, one of major stops before the train arrives in Lhasa. However, the number of foreigners who experienced the region's stunning scenery from the train came to a dramatic halt in March 2008 when China made Tibet off-limits after the riots in Lhasa. The area was reopened, visitors could not travel independently on the train or any other method of transport. The situation goes back and forth, so for the latest information, check out www.chinatibettrain.com for timetables and the news about permits and costs. A luxury service which promises to be akin to the Orient Express is scheduled to begin in April 2009; see www.tangulaluxurytrains.com for more details.
Visitors to the region should take in a few of Qinghai's must-see sites. The capital city of Xining is small and receives mixed reports, but it has some charming Tibetan flair. On the northwest edge of the city is the famed North Monastery, a solemn Daoist destination. The Kumbum Monastery is a testament of Tibetan tranquility. For a truly heavenly display, crane your neck skyward at Bird Island on Qinghai Lake several hundred miles to the west of Xining.
