Prolific restaurateur Jean Georges Vongerichten's namesake restaurant has delighted Shanghai for quite a few years now, but Mercato is a whole different animal, erring on the chic side of industrial chic. There's heavy use of iron, steel, and reclaimed wood, and the black leather and wooden chairs celebrate form and function. Chef Sandy Koon, who came from Spice Market in New York, has clearly passed her expertise on to her sous chefs. The pasta dishes are good, but the
smaller plates are where the kitchen really shines: the octopus is so tender it is gobbled up in seconds, the ricotta and seasonal fruit compote reached for immediately by the entire table.
Three on the Bund, 17 Guangdong Lu, 6th fl., Shanghai, 200002, China