A two-story engraving of a golden Buddha pays tribute to the origins of the inventive vegetarian dishes this restaurant has served since 1922. The chefs transform tofu into such surprising and tasty creations as mock duck, eel, and pork. The interior is just as inspired, with Ming-style wood-and-marble tables, metal latticework, and a soothing fountain. The tables fill up quickly, so either arrive before 6 pm or buy some goodies to go at the take-out counter. There's another
branch on 97 Wukang Lu, corner of Wuyuan Lu, in the French Concession.
445 Nanjing Xi Lu, Shanghai, 200041, China