Nightlife & the Arts in Shanghai

Nightlife offerings range from world-class swank to dark and dingy dens or from young Shanghainese kids screaming experimental punk to Filipino cover bands singing "Hotel California" in a hotel basement. Prices, scenes, crowds, and ambiance can range just as wildly.

Once the exclusive province of downtown, bars and clubs now dot all parts of Shanghai. There are, however, a few concentrations for those hoping to hop conveniently.

Maoming Nan Lu has long been Shanghai's nightlife hub, with the slightly seedy offerings of the main drag contrasting with the classy, upscale venues—most notably, Face —in the adjacent Ruijin Guest House, a hotel complex that takes up an entire city block. Threats to shut it down have yet to materialize, but much of the action has migrated elsewhere, to the new Tongren Lu bar street. Tongren Lu does have some good clubs for those who like their nightlife on the wild side. The infamous Julu Lu bar street is still going strong. All three of these are crowded with "fishing girls," who ask gents to give them money to buy drinks in exchange for their company (or something more)—and then they either pocket the money or take a cut from the bar.

Those looking for less-blatant sexual commerce should head to the popular bar, restaurant, and shopping complex of Xintiandi, an old Shanghai pastiche with an array of clean and pleasant but pricey bars. The Bund is gradually emerging as a center for upscale dining and drinking, and several new spaces slated to open in the upcoming years will serve to cement its position. Hengshan Lu and Fuxing Park also offer concentrations of bars and clubs.

The gay and lesbian scene in Shanghai is low-profile, staying under the gaydar of China's still-conservative social norms. Bars and clubs usually list under the euphemism of "alternative," and some of the more popular spots have been forced to move repeatedly. Contrary to the usual clichés, the pick-up scene in Shanghai's gay bars—and there are a lot more gays than lesbians at them—is much more laid-back and low-key than the super-charged sexuality at most "mainstream" clubs. The more aggressive pick-up scenes play out at public toilets, parks, and some bathhouses. The following are all in the Former French Concession.

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