Get a Massage

In China, a massage isn't an indulgence; it's what the doctor orders. According to the tenets of traditional Chinese medicine, massage can help the body's qi, or energy, flow freely and remain in balance.

Of course, where you choose to have your massage can tip the scale toward indulgence. Around Shanghai are hundreds of blind massage parlors, inexpensive no-frills salons whose blind masseurs are closely attuned to the body's soft and sore spots. Be careful you haven't wandered into a brothel, though! At the other end of the spectrum lie the hotel spas, luxurious retreats where pampering is at a premium. Here are just a few of the massage outlets in Shanghai that can attend to your needs.

The Banyan Tree Spa (Westin Shanghai, 88 Henan Zhong Lu, 3rd fl., Huangpu, 200002. 021/6335-1888. www.banyantreespa.com), the first China outpost of this ultraluxurious spa chain, occupies the 3rd floor of the Westin Shanghai. The spa's 13 chambers as well as its treatments are designed to reflect wu sing, the five elemental energies of Chinese philosophy: earth, gold, water, wood, and fire. Relax and enjoy one of five different massages (Y820 plus service charge), facials, body scrubs, or indulgent packages that combine all three.

With instructions clearly spelled out in English, Double Rainbow Massage House (47 Yongjia Lu, Luwan. 021/6473-4000) provides a cheap (Y45-Y80), nonthreatening introduction to traditional Chinese massage. Choose a masseur, state your preference for soft, medium, or hard massage, then keep your clothes on for a 45- to 90-minute massage. There's no ambience, just a clean room with nine massage tables.

Dragonfly (20 Donghu Lu, Xuhui, 200031. 021/5405-0008. www.dragonfly.com.cn) is one in a chain of therapeutic retreat centers that has claimed the middle ground between expensive hotel spas and workmanlike blind-man massage parlors. Don the suede-soft treatment robes for traditional Chinese massage (Y135), or take them off for an aromatic oil massage (Y225).

The Three on the Bund complex includes the first Evian Spa (Three on the Bund, Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, Huangpu, 200003. 021/6321-6622. www.threeonthebund.com) outside of France. Its 14 theme rooms offer treatments from head to toe, and nine different massages and a detox package (Y1,300) will ease the effects of pollution and late-night Shanghai partying.

With its exposed-wood beams, unpolished bricks, and soothing fountains, the Mandara Spa (399 Nanjing Xi Lu, Huangpu 200003. 021/5359-4969. www.mandaraspa.com) in the JW Marriott resembles a traditional Chinese water town. Face, beauty, and body treatments include the spa's signature Mandara massage (Y990), a 75-minute treatment in which two therapists administer a blend of five massage styles: Shiatsu, Thai, Lomi Lomi, Swedish, and Balinese.

Ming Massage (298 Wulumuqi Nan Lu, Xuhui. 021/5465-2501) is a Japanese-style salon that caters to women, who receive a 20% discount daily from 11 to 4. Cross over the footbridge to one of five small treatment rooms for a foot, body, or combination "Ming" massage (Y178).