By far the best way to get around Hong Kong is on the Mass Transit Railway or MTR. There are five main lines: the Island Line runs along the north coast of Hong Kong Island; the Tsuen Wan line goes from Central under the harbor to Tsim Sha Tsui then up to the western New Territories. Tsim Sha Tsui links to eastern New Kowloon via the Kwun Tong Line; also serving this area is the Tseung Kwan O Line, which crosses back over the harbor at Quarry Bay. Finally, the Tung Chung Line connects Central and west Kowloon with Tung Chung on Lantau, near the airport.
The MTR's highly modern trains are fast, clean, and very safe, as are the stations. Platforms and exits are clearly signposted, and all MTR areas are air-conditioned. Most stations have wheelchair access, and all have convenience stores and other shops or services. Trains run every 2-5 minutes between 6 AM and 1 AM daily. Station entrances are marked with a simple line symbol resembling a man with arms and legs outstretched.
You buy tickets from ticket machines (using coins or notes) or from English-speaking workers at the counters by the turnstile entrances. Fares are not zoned, but depend on which stations you're traveling between. There are no monthly or weekly tickets. If you're going to do more than one or two trips on the MTR (or any other form of transport), get yourself a rechargeable Octopus card. It saves you time lining up for tickets, and you get a discount on your fares, too.
Fares range from HK$4 to HK$26. The special Tourist MTR One-Day Pass (HK$50) allows you unlimited rides in a day. The three-day Airport Express Tourist Octopus (HK$220-HK$300) includes single journeys from-to the airport, unlimited MTR travel, and HK$20 worth of trips on other transport.
HKTB Visitor Hot Line (2508-1234). MTR (2881-8888. www.mtr.com.hk). Octopus Cards (2266-2222. www.octopuscards.com).