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They say the only way to get to know a place is to do what the locals do. When in Rome, scoot around on a Vespa and drink espresso. When in Hong Kong, shop. For most people in this city, shopping is a leisure activity, whether that means picking out a four-figure party dress, rifling through bins at an outlet, upgrading a cell phone, or choosing the freshest fish for dinner.
Shopping is so sacred that sales periods are calendar events, and most stores close on just three days a year—Christmas Day and the first two days of Chinese New Year. Imagine that: 362 days of unbridled purchasing. Opening hours are equally conducive to whiling your life away browsing the racks: all shops are open until 7 or 8 pm; many don't close their doors until midnight.
It's true that the days when everything in Hong Kong was mind-bogglingly cheap are over. It is still a tax-free port, so you can get some good deals. But it isn't just about the savings. Sharp contrasts and the sheer variety of experiences available make shopping here very different from back home.
You might find a bargain or two elbowing your way through a chaotic open-air market filled with haggling vendors selling designer knockoffs, the air reeking of the chou tofu ("stinky" tofu) bubbling at a nearby food stand. But then you could find a designer number going for half the usual price in a hushed marble-floor mall, the air scented by the designer fragrances of your fellow shoppers. What's more, in Hong Kong the two extremes are often within spitting distance of each other.
Needless to say, thanks to travelers like you running out of space in their suitcases, Hong Kong does a roaring trade in luggage. No need to feel guilty, though—shopping here is practically cultural research. All you're doing is seeing what local life is really like.
Around since 1978, Japanese brand 45R has garnered a reputation for ultracomfortable, exquisitely crafted jeans. Following the successes of outposts in Paris and New York, a flagship store opened on Star Street in 2008. Amid the minimalist surroundings, find heaps of its famous hand-dyed denim as well as breezy button-downs, wooly sweaters, and understated frocks.
If this quality weekend wear seems similar to a European label with a similar logo, that's because it is. Nevertheless, the Crocodile collections are well made and worth a look. In addition to the Wan Chai Road location, there are more than a dozen others across Hong Kong.
Hip utilitarian bags, soft fabrics, minimalist watches, comfy kicks, music, stationery—kapok is a one-stop shop for lifestyle products and accessories from independent brands. Meanwhile, the boutique's café serves up steamy French coffee that you're welcome to sip while browsing. If you're lucky, you'll catch one of the store's many exhibitions and pop-up collaborations.
You've seen Enter the Dragon a hundred times, and you practice your karate chops daily. Time to get the leather boots, sword, whip, double dagger, studded bracelet, and kempo gloves. Kung Fu Supplies Co. can kit you out.
Laura Cheung’s grandfather spent a lifetime hand-carving rosewood tables, and her father helmed a wildly successful ceramic manufacturing company, so it’s only natural that she carry on the tradition with Lala Curio, an eclectic home-ware store in a cool corner of Wan Chai. Cheung’s collections tip a hat to ancient Chinese craftsmanship, albeit with a whimsical modern spin; offerings range from pretty lacquer boxes to mosaic-tiled trays and bespoke upholstery.
As if running a magazine, website, and radio station weren’t enough, Monocle also has a handful of retail outlets, and Hong Kong devotees of the London-based media brand rejoiced when its store-cum-office opened on Star Street's St. Francis Yard in 2010. Whether shopping for excellent reading material or stylish accessories (picture trendy totes, linen-bound notebooks, greeting cards, and embossed card cases), you'll be in good company.
Some of the items at Nlostnfound could use a bath, but the clutter has a lot of character. Take the time to browse through the jumble of old-world trinkets—1940s clocks, Shanghai lamps, 20s-era luggage trunks, antique furniture, colorful wind-up walking toys, typewriters, and postcards—and you'll likely unearth something worth salvaging.
Part art gallery, part Aussie coffee shop, Odd One Out is an unpretentious addition to the gentrified Star Street precinct. Aiming to bring affordable and approachable art to everyday folks, the down-to-earth gallery café specializes in print and home products that have been handmade by local artists. Expect to spend around HK$55–HK$6,000 on any given piece, which could include stationery, wood cuttings, screen-printed totes, or original art prints made using masterful intaglio and lithography techniques, sans digital shortcuts.
Push past a giant weathered steel door to enter this atmospheric, high-ceiling showroom, which feels like a cross between a museum and a temple. Designed by an in-house team, the home furnishings and accessories here are smart and rarely fussy. Beautiful, unvarnished blocks of wood, for example, are proposed as side tables. A few minutes' walk away you'll find the newer OVO Studio (Ground fl., 1 Wan Chai Rd., 2527–6088), with its more European mix of in-house and international contemporary designs from brands like Tom Dixon, Fritz Hansen, and Andreu World.
Walk past busy garages and funky murals in this industrial Hong Kong area to find the chic atelier of Korean-English ex-lawyer Sonjia Norman. The designer crafts quietly luxurious, one-of-a-kind pieces and modified vintage clothing under the Sonjia label. Her clothes are the epitome of understated wealth, plus the boutique also offers an array of jewelry, scarves, and home accessories.
A regular in Hong Kong high society, Sir David Tang recently opened lifestyle boutique Tang Tang Tang Tang (meant to be sung like Beethoven’s Fifth). The entrepreneur is also behind classy China Club and iconic Shanghai Tang, so you know this spot is going to be good. Settled right under The Pawn’s heritage facade, TTTT is all about throwback colonial decor, with a creative western twist and a touch of whimsy. There are even daily tours of the ground floor (built in 1888 and originally home to the Lo family pawnshop) to show off the preserved staircase and architectural elements. As for the collection, it’s all very retro chic—even the rice maker has been classed up beyond recognition. TTTT is great for cheeky gifts, comfy pajamas, funky gadgets, and housewares that marry past and present with eye-catching results.
Modern and minimalist, VEIN on the Yard's decor is in perfect harmony with its Nordic apparel. The combination boutique and gallery on St. Francis Yard is a spinoff of Vein, and offers up a mix of Scandinavian luxury labels and home accessories. The lineup changes every four to six weeks, but you can usually find at least a dozen stalwart, simple-yet-elegant brands, including Filippa K and Won Hundred. Expect straight lines, a gray-scale palette, and unexpected splashes of color.
You can find decent deals on computer goods and accessories in the labyrinth of shops spanning several floors. It's not as easy to negotiate prices here as it once was, but there are technicians who can help you put together a computer in less than a day if you're rushed; otherwise, two days is normal. The starting price is around HK$3,250 depending on the hardware, processor, and peripherals you choose. This is a great resource, whether you're a techno-buff who's interested in assembling your own computer (a popular pastime in Hong Kong) or a technophobe looking for quality headphones.
There's a nostalgic charm to the butterflies, birds, and natural forms fashioned from jade, pearls, precious stones, and gold here. Everything looks like an heirloom inherited from your grandmother. With on-site gemologists and artisans, and a commitment to postsale service, this store has a long list of repeat customers. If, however, you lean toward Scandinavian aesthetics and clean lines, this probably isn't the place for you. Wing On Jewelery also has a Causeway Bay branch at 459 Hennessy Road.
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