Hong Kong

They say the only way to get to know a place is to do what the locals do. When in Rome, scoot around on a Vespa and drink espresso. When in Hong Kong, shop. For most people in this city, shopping is a leisure activity, whether that means picking out a four-figure party dress, rifling through bins at an outlet, upgrading a cell phone, or choosing the freshest fish for dinner.

Shopping is so sacred that sales periods are calendar events, and most stores close on just three days a year—Christmas Day and the first two days of Chinese New Year. Imagine that: 362 days of unbridled purchasing. Opening hours are equally conducive to whiling your life away browsing the racks: all shops are open until 7 or 8 pm; many don't close their doors until midnight.

It's true that the days when everything in Hong Kong was mind-bogglingly cheap are over. It is still a tax-free port, so you can get some good deals. But it isn't just about the savings. Sharp contrasts and the sheer variety of experiences available make shopping here very different from back home.

You might find a bargain or two elbowing your way through a chaotic open-air market filled with haggling vendors selling designer knockoffs, the air reeking of the chou tofu ("stinky" tofu) bubbling at a nearby food stand. But then you could find a designer number going for half the usual price in a hushed marble-floor mall, the air scented by the designer fragrances of your fellow shoppers. What's more, in Hong Kong the two extremes are often within spitting distance of each other.

Needless to say, thanks to travelers like you running out of space in their suitcases, Hong Kong does a roaring trade in luggage. No need to feel guilty, though—shopping here is practically cultural research. All you're doing is seeing what local life is really like.

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  • 1. Harbour City

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    The four interconnected complexes that make up Harbour City contain almost 500 shops between them—if you can't find it here, it probably doesn't exist. Pick up a map on your way in, as it's easy to get lost. Ocean Terminal, the largest section, runs along the harbor and is divided thematically, with kids' wear and toys on the ground floor, and sports and cosmetics on the first. The top floor is home to white-hot department store LCX. Near the Star Ferry pier, the Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel Arcade has branches of the department store Lane Crawford. Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Burberry are some of the posher boutiques that fill the Ocean Centre and Gateway Arcade, parallel to Canton Road. Most of the complex's restaurants are here, too. A cinema and three hotels round out Harbour City's offerings. Free Wi-Fi is available.

    3–27 Canton Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
  • 2. Pearls & Cashmere

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Warehouse prices in chic shopping arcades? It's true. This old Hong Kong favorite is elegantly housed on both sides of the harbor. In addition to quality men's and women's cashmere sweaters in classic designs and in every color under the sun, they also sell reasonably priced pashminas, gloves, and socks, which make great gifts for men and women. In recent years the brand has developed the more fashion-focused line, BYPAC.

    Salisbury Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2723–8698
  • 3. Sam's Tailor

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Unlike many famous Hong Kong tailors, you won't find the legendary Sam's in a chic hotel or sleek mall. But don't be fooled. These digs in humble Burlington House, a tailoring hub, have hosted everyone from U.S. presidents (back as far as Richard Nixon) to performers such as the Black Eyed Peas, Kylie Minogue, and Blondie. This former uniform tailor to the British troops once even made a suit for Prince Charles in a record hour and 52 minutes. The men's and women's tailor does accept 24-hour suit or shirt orders, but will take about two days if you're not in a hurry. Founded by Naraindas Melwani in 1957, "Sam" is now his son, Manu Melwani, who runs the show with the help of his own son, Roshan, and about 57 tailors behind the scenes. In 2004 Sam's introduced a computerized bodysuit that takes measurements without a tape measure (it uses both methods, however). These tailors also make biannual trips to Europe and North America: schedule updates are listed on the website.

    94 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2367–9423
  • 4. Artland Watch Co Ltd.

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Elegant but uncomplicated, the interior of this established watch retailer is like its service. The informed staff will guide you through the countless luxury brands on show and in the catalogs from which you can also order. Prices here aren't the best in Hong Kong, but they're still lower than at home.

    62A Nathan Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2366–4508
  • 5. Carat

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Forget the cheesy cubic zirconium of the past. One look at its stark showrooms, and you'll see that Carat has mastered the creation and presentation of synthetic gemstones. Hand-assembled in precious-metal settings, the large collection spans various eras of jewelry styles. Harbour City houses its flagship store, but you'll also find Carat in the IFC Mall and eight other Hong Kong locations.

    7–27 Canton Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    3101–1510
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  • 6. Collect Point

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Hidden away in the basement of Mira Mall, this 22,000-square-foot department store makes you feel like you’re shopping in Tokyo. The brand list doesn’t cover recognizable names, focusing instead on refreshing alternatives such as Lowrys Farm, Jeanasis, and Global Work. When the hip housewares and cool clothes have worn you out, tuck into Japanese-fusion food at Tokyo-import Wired Café.

    118 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2367–2700
  • 7. Delon Photo & Hi-Fi Centre

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Longtime residents ask for popular salesman Elmen Sit when they come to Delon. He'll take you through the range carried here. Sit also demystifies various bits of equipment for novices—he'll even tell you what you don't need. Prices are good, but not amazingly cheap.

    5 Canton Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2730–0214
  • 8. Dorfit

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    A longtime cashmere manufacturer and retailer, Dorfit caters to a variety of men's, women's, and children's tastes. Knitwear here comes in pure cashmere as well as blends, so be sure to ask which is which.

    71–77 Peking Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2312–1013
  • 9. Elements

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    This upscale shopping mall is in the Kowloon West residential and commercial district, just above Kowloon's Airport Express train and check-in station. Beautifully designed, it's divided into five different zones based on the titular elements: metal, wood, water, earth, and fire. This is one-stop shopping as far as international luxury brands are concerned, with Valentino, Prada, and Gucci, just to name a few.

    1 Austin Rd. West, Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2735–5234
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  • 10. FACES

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    This sprawling one-stop shop, just a stone's throw from the Kowloon Star Ferry terminal, carries a long list of high-profile and niche beauty brands.

    5 Canton Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2118–5622
  • 11. Giordano

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Hong Kong's version of the Gap is the most established and ubiquitous local source for basic T-shirts, jeans, and casual wear. Like its U.S. counterpart, the brand now has a bit more fashion sense, but prices are still reasonable. Although the flagship store is in Manson House on Nathan Road, you'll have no problem finding one on almost every major street.

    74–78 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2926–1028
  • 12. giordano ladies

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    If Giordano is the Gap, giordano ladies is the Banana Republic, albeit with a more Zen aesthetic. Find clean-line modern classics in neutral black, gray, white, and beige; each collection is brightened by a soft highlight color, such as leafy green, indigo, or rusty orange. Everything is elegant enough for the office and comfortable enough for the plane.

    74–78 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2926–1331
  • 13. Hong Kong Records

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    You'll find a good selection of current local and international CDs and DVDs at this age-old company. A lower profile also means prices are sometimes lower than in flashier retailers.

    3-27 Canton Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2175–5700
  • 14. Initial

    Causeway Bay

    This team of local designers creates simple but whimsical clothing with a trendy urban edge. The bags and accessories strike a soft vintage tone, fitting the store's fashionably worn interiors, casually strewn secondhand furniture, and sultry jazz soundtrack. In Causeway Bay, you'll find distinct men's and women's stores. To shop both together under one roof, you'll have to trek up to Sha Tin.

    19 Yun Ping Rd., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2526–8862
  • 15. LCX

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    This spacious store combines local and international fashion, beauty products, and dining under one roof. Clothing brands like American Eagle, French Connection, Jack Wills, and Initial all have their own areas here, as do TonyMoly, Dr.Ci:Labo, Lush, and other cosmetics lines. LCX also has a handful of restaurants, including Gyu-Kaku Japanese and Mou Mou Club.

    2–27 Canton Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2890–5200
  • 16. Maxwell's Clothiers Ltd.

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    After you've found a handful of reputable, high-quality tailors, one way to choose between them is price. Maxwell's is known for its competitive rates. It's also a wonderful place to have favorite men’s and women’s shirts and suits copied. It was founded by third-generation tailor Ken Maxwell in 1961 and follows Shanghai tailoring traditions, while also providing the fabled 24-hour suit upon request. The showroom and workshop are in Kowloon, but son Andy and his team take appointments in the United States, Canada, Australia, and Europe twice annually.

    39–41 Hankow Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2366–6705
  • 17. Mira Mall

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Not to be confused with the neighboring Miramar Shopping Centre, this mall opened in 2012 as the latest addition to The Mira (a design-driven luxury hotel). With offerings like Twist, Tommy Hilfiger, and Coach, it targets Hong Kong's young elite. Asian talent is a focal point at the four-story galleria, where you'll find Hong Kong–based Ika Butoni and her colorful Indonesian creations. Other noteworthy brands include Noriem, Cocomojo, and Sebago. Don't miss the huge Collect Point flagship store in the basement.

    118 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2315–5868
  • 18. Mode Elegante

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    Don't be deterred by the somewhat dated mannequins in the windows. Mode Elegante is a favorite source for custom-made suits among women and men in the know. Tailors here specialize in European cuts. You'll have your choice of fabrics from the United Kingdom, Italy, and elsewhere. Your records are put on file so you can place orders from abroad. It'll even ship the completed garment to you almost anywhere on the planet. Alternatively, you can make an appointment with director Gary Zee, one of Hong Kong's traveling tailors, who makes regular visits to North America, Australia, Europe, and Japan.

    3 Salisbury Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2366–8153
  • 19. Prince Jewellery and Watch Company

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    This shop carries timepieces made by more than 50 international brands, including Omega, Chopard, Breguet, and IWC. There's other jewelry on sale as well, which may entertain those accompanying the avid watch shopper.

    10 Peking Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2369–2123
  • 20. Raja Fashions

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    A three-generation haberdasher that's been dressing Hong Kong tai pans since 1957, Raja Fashions has a presence in 13 countries around the world. At the Hong Kong flagship on Cameron Road, gents will be spoiled for choice when it comes to suit fabrics—there are more than 20,000 on offer, including big names such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana, and Guabello.

    34--C Cameron Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2366–7624

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