They say the only way to get to know a place is to do what the locals do. When in Rome, scoot around on a Vespa and drink espresso. When in Hong Kong, shop. For most people in this city, shopping is a leisure activity in itself, whether that means picking out a four-figure party dress, rifling through bins at an outlet, upgrading a cell phone, or selecting the freshest fish for dinner. Shopping is so sacred that sales periods are calendar events, and most stores close on just three days a year -- Christmas Day and the first two days of Chinese New Year. Imagine that: 362 unbridled days of purchasing ops. Opening hours are equally conducive to whiling your life away browsing the racks: all shops are open until 7 or 8 PM; many don't close their doors until midnight.
It's true that the days when everything in Hong Kong was mind-bogglingly cheap are over. It is still a tax-free port, though, so you can get some good deals. But it isn't just about the savings. Sharp contrasts and the sheer variety of experiences available make shopping here very different from back home. You might find a bargain or two elbowing your way through a chaotic open-air market filled with haggling vendors selling designer knock-offs, the air reeking of the chou tofu ("stinky" tofu) bubbling at a nearby food stand. But then you could find a designer number going for half the usual price in a hushed marble-floor mall, Vivaldi piping through the loudspeaker, or the air reeking of designer fragrances worn by fellow shoppers. What's more, in Hong Kong, the two extremes are often within spitting distance of each other.
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