When Michelle Garnaut opened M at the Fringe in 1989, the idea of a high-end restaurant that fused various culinary traditions, and was not affiliated to any hotel, was completely novel to Hong Kong. Although the concept is no longer unusual, the restaurant is still excellent, and its menu continues to defy categorization, at once embracing French, European, Turkish, Lebanese, and Italian cuisines. The common denominator, says Garnaut, is "simple, good, down-to-earth food that I like to eat and cook," from homemade sausages and her trademark slow-cooked lamb, to antipasto or meze platters, suckling pig, and creamy fish pie. Her pavlova is legendary, but try it amid the grand dessert platter of eight bite-size desserts.
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