It's worth the trek almost to the Chinese border to visit this preserved 1865 home of New Territories merchant and philanthropist Man Ching-luen. The surefire path to becoming a big shot in Imperial China was passing civil service examinations, but few people from Hong Kong -- which was Hicksville at the time -- made the grade. Man Ching-luen proved the exception in 1875. Congratulatory tablets from the emperor hang in the house's entrance hall. The room layout, beautifully decorated doors, and roof ridges are all characteristic of Qing Dynasty architecture. Stained-glass and roccoco moldings reflect European influences, a result of the British victory over China in the Opium War of 1841. Women could watch guests unobserved from an upper gallery here, which also has an enclosed courtyard for star-gazing, charmingly called a "moon playing chamber." To reach the house, cross over the road outside Sheung Shui KCR station and take Bus 76K toward Yuen Long -- alight at San Tin, 5 1/2 km (3 1/2 mi) away. The five-minute walk to the mansion is signposted from there. Alternatively, get a taxi from the station -- one-way costs HK$35; for under HK$100 the taxi will wait for you and take you back, too.