At Luohu (the main border crossing between Hong Kong and mainland China) the masses are funneled through a large three-story building. From the outside this building looks huge, but from the inside -- especially when you're surrounded by a quarter million other people waiting to be processed -- the crossing can be reminiscent of a scene from Soylent Green.
If you're just going through Shenzhen enroute to or from Guangzhou, take the through train from Kowloon to Guangzhou. The immigration line at the Guangzhou East station is a comparative piece of cake, even on the worst days. It's possible to buy tickets on the fly on this commuter train, but we advise booking anywhere from a few hours to a day or two in advance.
If you're heading into Shenzhen, why not trade the mad crush of Luohu for an hourlong ferry ride followed by a quick trip through the much less popular border crossing at Shekou Harbor? Although this won't bring you into downtown Shenzhen, you'll be no farther from attractions like the amusement parks and Mission Hills Golf Club.
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