Small, quiet, and cute, this appealing courtyard hotel—inside one of the city's hutong and featuring a centuries-old date tree, red lanterns, and other such traditional Chinese decorations—may once have been the home of Mei Lanfang, the legendary male Peking opera star known for playing female roles. All guest rooms are furnished with rosewood beds, antique bureaus, and modern gadgets (like satellite TV), but the VIP room, as you would expect, is the largest and best,
and worth reserving in advance. If that's not available, request one of the executive rooms. Bicycles are available for free.