Fringe Art: The Dashanzi 798 Art District

If you are keen to see what the city's art scene has to offer beyond calligraphy, the Dashanzi 798 Art District boasts a thriving contemporary art community. Just as the city comes of age in the international, political, and economic arena, so too are Chinese artists. Exploration of social taboos, use of digital media, and clever installations are juxtaposed among more orthodox forms of canvas paintings and photography. Some efforts may seem like trite knockoffs of American pop art, and Mao references run rampant, but keep in mind this level of expression is still evolving for the public arena. Complete freedom of expression is not tolerated and governmental closings are not unheard of (though they're increasingly rare).

Built in the 1950s, the factory was a major industrial project designed by East German architects backed by Soviet aid. The factory's decline started in the 1980s, just as Beijing's contemporary art scene began to emerge. The massive relocation of pollutant factories outside the city in preparation for the 2008 Summer Olympic Games further accelerated the decline of the area's manufacturing roots and allowed for the incubation of modern art. The recent government declaration of Dashanzi as a protected arts district has paved the way for a resurgence of inventive local galleries, as well as design studios, restaurants, cafés, and bars. The annual Dashanzi International Arts Festival—held each May—continues to draw international attention to the 798 area.

The Dashanzi compound is immensely walkable; keep in mind this is solely a pedestrian affair unless you arrive by private car. Cabs are not allowed to enter the compound and you will be required to disembark at any of the entrance gates. Though it's open on weekdays (except Monday), most people visit on weekends, when throngs of locals and foreigners congregate to see what's on display.

Traveling from the city by car, take the Dashanzi (#2) exit off the Airport Expressway. Just as you come to the end of the exit ramp, ask the driver to stop at the intersection. Cross the road and walk against oncoming traffic until you see 797 Microphone. Enter through the main gate, onto Jiuxianqiao Road. It may be helpful to ask your hotel staff to instruct the taxi driver before you set off. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd., Dashanzi, Chaoyang District. 010/6438-4862 or 010/6437-6248. www.798space.com.

To get a feel for what sells abroad, drop by internationally owned galleries such as White Space Beijing or Art Seasons. These established galleries house perennially hot artists such as Liu Fei, Zhao Bo, and Chen Ke. Time-Zone 8 Book Shop is an avant-garde bookshop in the heart of Dashanzi.

Art Seasons Gallery (010/6431-1900. www.artseasonsgallery.com). Time-Zone 8 Book Shop (010/8456-0336. www.timezone8.com). White Space Beijing (010/8456-2054. www.alexanderochs-galleries.de/whitespace).