Beijing Today

The air is dirty, the traffic is horrendous, and almost nobody speaks more than a word or two of English—so what makes Beijing one of the world's top destinations?

Today's Beijing…

…is old and new. The flat skyline of Beijing, punctuated only by imposing ceremonial towers and the massive gates of the city wall, is lost forever. But still, standing on Coal Hill and looking south across the Forbidden City—or listening to the strange echo of your voice atop an ancient altar at the Temple of Heaven—you can't help but feel the weight of thousands of years of history. It was here that Marco Polo dined with Kublai Khan and his Mongol hordes; that Ming and Qing emperors ruled over China from the largest and richest city in the world; and that Mao Zedong proclaimed the founding of the People's Republic in 1949. Much of Beijing's charm comes from a juxtaposition of old and new. When you're riding a taxi along the Third Ring Road it may seem that the high-rise apartments and postmodern office complexes stretch on forever. They do, but tucked in among the glass and steel are elaborate temples wafting with incense, and tiny alleyways where old folks still gather in their pajamas every evening to play cards and drink warm beer. Savoring these small moments is the key to appreciating Beijing.

…lets you eat your heart out. If you really love the General Tso's Chicken back at your local Chinese take-out place, you may want to skip Beijing altogether. Many a returned visitor has complained of being unable to enjoy the bland stuff back home after experiencing the myriad flavors and textures of China's varied regional cuisines. From the mouth-numbing spice of Sichuan, to the delicate presentation of an imperial banquet, or the cumin-sprinkled kebabs of China's Muslim west, Beijing has it all. If you're looking for the ultimate in authenticity, dine at a restaurant attached to one of the city's provincial representative offices, where the chefs and ingredients are imported to satisfy the taste buds of bureaucrats working far from home. The crispy skin and tender flesh of the capital's signature dish, Peking Duck, is on everyone's must-eat list. Don't worry if you tire of eating Chinese three times a day. As Beijing has grown rich in recent years, Western and fusion cuisine offerings have improved greatly, with everything from French to Middle Eastern to Texas-style barbecue now available. If you're looking for one special (and relatively expensive) night out, reserve a window table at the Courtyard, where east meets west with spectacular views of the Forbidden City.

…is opening up and closing down. Just when you thought Beijing was turning into another London or New York, you're reminded that things are done a little bit differently in China. Beijing promised to open up to the world after it was awarded the 2008 Olympic Games, but most people don't seem to have gotten the message. Sure, there are more English signs around the capital and your cab driver may be able to rattle off a strained Haloo!, but many aspects of life in China remain mired in Soviet-style bureaucratic nightmare. In a country where dictates of the Party triumph over the rule of law, there's little a foreigner (or anyone else for that matter) can do when confronted by the state juggernaut. Foreign journalists were promised unrestricted access to all areas of the country in the run-up to the Games, but that freedom was rescinded almost overnight when social unrest led to protests in Tibet and Xinjiang. Along with photographers, musicians, and artists, foreign journalists (particularly freelancers) were among those hardest hit by new visa restrictions introduced shortly before the Games. Of course, the restrictions placed on foreigners are nothing compared to what Chinese residents of Beijng have gone through in recent years. As many as 2 million mostly poor people were displaced from their homes in the run-up to the Olympics, many of whom received little or no compensation. Those who protested have been "reeducated" and imprisoned. Hundreds of thousands of migrant workers were expelled from the capital before the television crews arrived. Farther afield, factories within a 500-km (310-mi) radius of Beijing were ordered to shut down for three months before and during the Olympics, with millions of people temporarily put out of work. The result? A somewhat sterilized city that's only slowly returning to normal.

…is part of a new world order. Beijing's transformation hasn't only been limited to Olympic venues. Prestige projects like the National Theater ("the Egg"), the new CCTV building, and a massive subway expansion are meant to show that China is ready to play with the big boys. The Chinese are fiercely patriotic, and anti-foreign demonstrations occasionally break out when the country's collective pride is insulted. The official version of Chinese history taught in schools emphasizes the nation's suffering at the hands of foreign colonial powers during the 19th and 20th centuries, and the subsequent Communist liberation. Still, you'll find Beijingers infinitely polite and curious about your life back home. People here aren't quite sure what to make of their new surroundings, and they're as interested in finding out about you as you are about them. So strike up a conversation (with your hands if necessary), but go easy on the politics.

Cool Facts on the Capital City

With 10.3 million official residents, Beijing is China's second-largest city after Shanghai.

The city has existed in various forms for 2,500 years, but Homo erectus fossils prove that humans have lived here for 250,000 years.

Beijing was once surrounded by a massive city wall constructed 600 years ago during the Ming Dynasty. Of the 16 original gates, only three remain standing. The wall was demolished in 1965 to make way for the Second Ring Road.

At 100 acres, Tiananmen Square is the largest urban square in the world. During the Cultural Revolution as many as 1 million people were able to stand on numbered spaces for huge rallies with Chairman Mao.

Despite major efforts to improve Beijing's air quality, pollution levels in the city remain several times higher than World Health Organization limits. Adding to the problem, a single sandstorm can drop tens of thousands of tons of dust onto the city in mere hours.

Beijingers love to brew, and more than 1,000 tea shops can be found along Maliandao Tea Street in the city's southwest. Top-quality leaves can run as high as $5,000 per pound. That's U.S. dollars, not Chinese yuan!

The 798 Art District is the home of China's red-hot modern art scene. An example: a Yue Minjun painting inspired by the 1989 crackdown in Tiananmen Square sold for $5,000 in 1994 and resold for $6.9 million in 2008.