Shelled river shrimp (wumen xiaren) are a light and delicate signature dish at this lovely restaurant accessed via a narrow alley north of Lion's Grove Garden. The busy kitchen also pulls off a satisfactorily crisp rendition of the region's famous songshu guiyu (squirrel fish), scored and fried so that the white meat fans outwards in chopstick-friendly mouthfuls. Sweet and sour sauce completes the experience. The traditional setting means Wumen Renjia is popular with Chinese travelers.
31 Panru Xiang, north of Lion's Grove Garden, Suzhou, 215002, China