This top-notch restaurant reflects the upbeat, forward-thinking new generation of postdisaster Cambodia, represented here by the determined and visionary young owner, Siv Pola. Although some ingredients are imported, Pola makes fresh, local, seasonal ingredients a priority. Try the popular spicy tuna tartare with mango or the wonderfully inventive Tonle Sap Fish, a carpaccio of snake head fish fillet, marinated in fresh picked herbs, with a tempura poached egg. For dessert the hot, creamy chocolate cake is a winner. Everything is prepared with sensitivity, creativity, and great skill, right down to the home-mixed herbal teas. The somewhat out of the way location makes the open-air garden restaurant a sweet respite from noisier parts of the city, and the proudly low-budget Asian-chic style is a pleasing marriage of traditional and contemporary elements.