Cambodia: Places to Explore

Kep

You'll never find another seaside getaway quite like Kep, with its narrow pebble beach bordered by the ghostly villa ruins of the Khmer Rouge era. What once was the coastal playground of Cambodia's elite was destroyed in decades of war. Squatters have taken up residence in the old mansions, and ever so slowly investors are refurbishing what's salvageable. Someday soon, Kep will again bustle with activity—it's already the home of the most expensive hotel in the country. But first, Kep needs the basics, like electricity—if you see an electric light, it's powered by a car battery or a generator. Don't let the mention of squatters scare you away; Kep is not dangerous. When you arrive, moto drivers and tour guides are sure to find you. Not much traffic comes through Kep, so the locals know the bus schedule. They're sure to offer you a tour of the nearby pepper plantation. Take up the offer. Kep grows some of the world's best.

The beach in town is small but sandy. Offshore, Rabbit Island is an idyllic spot with nothing but a few huts, a few fishermen, and a few seaweed farmers in residence. You can hire a boat to take you there for $10. Sit in one of the beachside salas to enjoy the afternoon, or take a walk around the island. Hurry, though—a Vietnamese casino is planned for the island, and soon its calm will be lost forever.

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