If you were a castaway, this would be heaven. It's difficult to imagine almost anywhere on earth that's as wildly beautiful and remote as this exotic camp on the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika. Six wood and thatch bandas nestle on the forest rim. Behind them thickly wooded mountains rise almost 2,500 meters (8,200 feet); in front of them white sands stretch to the peaceful azure waters of the lake. Tarzan, of course, was really Lord Greystoke, so this aristocrat of camps
is well-named. Your banda has furniture of bleached dhow wood, a rustic toilet and shower, and a lower and upper wooden deck with views over the lake. The main building is loosely based in the style of a Tongwe chief's hut, although many of your meals will be taken on the beach, at night by glowing lanterns. It's not easy to get here: a four-hour flight from Arusha followed by a two-hour boat ride. But once here you won't ever want to leave. About 60 of Mahale's 1,000 or so wild chimpanzees live in the forest near Greystoke, so you have an excellent chance of spotting them. Go snorkeling, birding, or just chill. Bookings are made only through reputable tour operators. There are no roads within 100 km (62 mi) of camp, and access is only by light aircraft using the shared charter flights that operate on Mondays and Thursdays from Arusha only. Flights leave early in the morning and return to Arusha early evening that same day. The flight to Greystoke Mahale is around 3–4 hours, and upon arrival at the airstrip there is an approximately 90-minute dhow trip down the lake to reach the camp. See the Tour Operators chart in Chapter 1, Your Safari, for operator suggestions.