East of Clanwilliam the R364 becomes a spectacularly scenic gravel road called Pakhuis Pass. Fantastic rock formations glow in the early morning or late afternoon. There's even a mountain range called the Tra-Tra Mountains, a completely fantastical name for a suitably fantastical landscape. A steep, narrow road to the right leads to the mission town of Wuppertal, with its characteristic white-thatch houses and sleepy air. This used to be a thriving Moravian mission
station, and remnants of the old industries remain—a baker still turns out soft, yeasty loaves that are snapped up as fast as they come out of the oven, and you can see shoes being made in the local shoe factory. You can drive this road in an ordinary rental car, but be very careful in wet weather. Another way of seeing Pakhuis Pass is to take a Donkey Cart Adventures trip down to the tiny remote village of Heuningvlei, a former Moravian mission station. Currently only 20 families live here, making a modest living as subsistence farmers.