For the true flavor of West Coast life, come to the original open-air seafood restaurant, on the beach south of Lambert's Bay. It consists of nothing more than a circular boma (enclosure) of packed muisbos (a local shrub) and haphazardly arranged benches and tables. You'll watch food cook over blazing fires. Snoek is smoked in an old drum covered with burlap, bread bakes in a clay oven, and everywhere fish sizzles on grills and in giant pots. Prepare to eat as much as you can of the prix-fixe meal (R175), using your hands or mussel shells as spoons. Be sure to try some of the local specialties like bokkems (dried salty fish) and waterblommetjiebredie (water-flower stew). Crayfish costs extra (R35 for a half order, R70 for a whole one), but don't order it unless you have an enormous appetite. The only drawback is high-season crowding: when the restaurant operates at full capacity, your 150 fellow diners can overwhelm the experience. Ask about the quaint Farm Cottage if you're looking for a place to stay.