Everybody loves a success story, and Reuben Riffel has hit the jackpot: a string of restaurants in desirable South African destinations, all born of this one. Reuben cooks food he would like to eat, and so, it seems, would everyone else. For starters consider the chili-salted squid with nuac cham (Vietnamese dipping sauce), fragrant salad, and lime mayo, or spicy beef tartare, crispy fried egg yolk, parsley-caper salsa, and grana padano herb salad. Mains include grilled miso-marinated quail served with a spiced citrus sauce, beetroot discs, cumin-carrot puree, and potato gratin. The decor is minimalist but welcoming, with a roaring fire in winter, and service is impeccable and well informed. Have a drink at the trendy bar, made from an airplane wing.