The Western Cape and Winelands Restaurants

The dining scene ranges from fine South African cuisine complete with silver service to local, laid-back, country-style cooking. Franschhoek restaurants attract some of the country's most innovative chefs, who aren't afraid to experiment with unusual ingredients or food-and-wine combinations, and offer up a very sophisticated dining experience in a gorgeous setting. West Coast fare is not as urban as what you find in the Cape Winelands, and coastal towns usually concentrate on seafood, often served in open-air restaurants. Farther inland the cuisine tends to be less trendy and the portions more generous. Be sure to try some Cape Malay cuisine, characterized by mild, slightly sweet curries and aromatic spices. The only places you're likely to be disappointed in the food are in smaller agricultural towns in the Overberg or up the West Coast, where overcooked veggies and an uninspiring and indistinguishable roast are still the norm. But this is changing from month to month as weary city slickers head out of town to open lovely restaurants serving high-quality food.

Country restaurants tend to serve lunch from noon and dinner from 6, and do not cater to late diners except on weekends. Because these areas rely heavily on tourists and local day-trippers, most restaurants in the Cape Winelands and seaside towns are open on weekends, especially for leisurely Sunday lunches, but may catch their breath on Sunday evenings or quieter Mondays. Dress codes vary as much as the dining experiences. Casual wear is acceptable during the day and at most restaurants in the evening. On the coast people pull shorts and T-shirts over their swimsuits before tucking into a plate of calamari and chips (fries), but some Winelands restaurants like their patrons to look as good as the cuisine they deliver. Even so, a nice pair of jeans or pants and a good shirt are usually enough; jackets and ties are rarely expected. If there's someplace you really want to eat, reserve ahead. In December and January, popular restaurants book up quickly, and reservations are advised at least a day or two in advance.

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  • 1. Jessica's Restaurant

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    Housed in a Victorian building is a restaurant with French colonial decor—with rich plummy colors, lots of candles, and dark wood—and pictures of the Staffordshire bull terrier for which the place is named. The crab and shrimp cakes, served with a creamy lime dressing, are a standout item on the starter menu, but you'll also be blown away by Thai prawns, marinated in lime, chili, ginger and garlic, served on a Thai green curry risotto. Follow that with the Karoo lamb noisettes with a rich cabernet and rosemary sauce.Classic highlights are the famous crispy duck and satiny lavender-infused crème brûlée. In good weather, ask to sit in the garden.

    47 Bath St., Montagu, Western Cape, 6720, South Africa
    023-614–1805

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    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Tues. May–Sept., Dec., and Jan. No lunch, Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 2. Olivello

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    Be sure to book a table outside near the lily pond at this relaxed restaurant that serves Cape-meets-Mediterranean-style food in a fabulous country setting. Though the menu is fairly small, you'll still be hard-pressed to make a choice between such tasty options as lamb tagine (stew) served with preserved lemon, venison shanks slow-cooked in red wine and flavored with juniper, and beef fillet dressed with a cracked-peppercorn-and-brandy sauce. If all that sounds too rich for a hot summer's day, try the chicken salad with a lightly curried mayonnaise sauce, almonds, and apricots. On Sundays a Mediterranean buffet (R190) lets you choose from 20 tapas and four main courses; dessert is not included. There's a good kids' menu, and children can have fun in the boats on the nearby dam or play on the lawn while you keep a watchful eye on them.

    Stellenbosch, Western Cape, 7600, South Africa
    021-875–5443

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    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner, Credit cards accepted
  • 3. The Milkwood

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    Overlooking the lagoon in Onrus, the Milkwood is a great place for a languid lunch. You can sit on the deck after a quick dip and eat some fresh fish (what kind of fish depends on the day's catch), grilled and served with a lemon or garlic-butter sauce.

    95 Atlantic Dr., Onrus, Western Cape, 7201, South Africa
    028-316–1516

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  • 4. The Shellfish Bar

    $ | Seafood

    This is one of the places where you can try abalone quite legally. At the big abalone factory the mollusks are cultivated, harvested, and packaged for local restaurants and overseas markets. The restaurant has a full sushi menu with everything from salmon and tuna to crab and eel. The fresh oysters and crayfish are sensational, but if you don't like seafood, expect to go hungry. The bar doesn't hold a liquor license, so bring your own alcohol.

    35 Harbour Rd., Kleinmond, Western Cape, 7195, South Africa
    082-043–7913

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.–Tues.
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