Swaths of scarlet bougainvillea run riot in the lush gardens of this family-owned country inn with tastefully furnished rooms that each have a small veranda. It was here that Rider Haggard wrote some of his adventure stories, inspired perhaps by the mysterious lights and elusive flickering flames that give the mountain its spooky name. Large, invitingly restful public areas have terra-cotta tiles and comfortable cane furniture, and the cozy African lounge makes you feel
like you've slipped back to the past. Don't miss the enthusiastic Zulu dancing before a succulent barbecue under the stars. At first light, wander down to the lake and watch the waterbirds wake up, or, later in the day, sit in the blind and watch them come home to roost. There's an excellent curio shop. The friendly staff can arrange tours to the neighboring game reserves and cultural sights or will fix you up to go bird-watching or fishing.
Fish Eagle Rd., Mkuze, South Africa