Chef-owner Giorgio Nava is so passionate about using only the finest ingredients that he catches his own fish and farms his own beef. Diners will be hard-pressed to find better Milanese cuisine. The paper-thin beef carpaccio "95" is drizzled with housemade mayonnaise and topped with fresh arugula and Parmesan shavings. When Nava manages to catch tuna, he serves it seared with cherry tomatoes, capers, and olives. The butternut-squash-filled ravioli with brown sage butter is sublime, and the soft-centered chocolate soufflé is the benchmark for every other. With its bentwood chairs, the upstairs interior is Eames-inspired; downstairs, the exposed stone reveals the building's ancient history, which began in 1682.