Zagora is—and does feel like—the boundary between the Sahara and what some writers and travelers have referred to as "reality." After Zagora, time and distance are measured in camel days: a famous painted sign at the end of town (near the impressive new Zagora Province offices) features a camel and reads, "Tombouctu 52 Days"—that is, "52 days by camel." M'Hamid, 97 km (60 miles) farther south, marks the actual end of the paved road and the beginning of the open desert, but Zagora is where the sensation of being in the desert kicks in.

On your way out of town, heading across the bridge signposted toward M’Hamid, you’ll find the town of Amezrou and in it, the fascinating Kasbah des Juifs (Kasbah of the Jews).

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