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The trip south from Tetouan to Chefchaouen takes you through fertile valleys where locals sell produce along the road, sheep graze in golden sunshine, and the pace of life slows remarkably from that of the regions just to the north. The route from Chefchaouen to Al Hoceima winds through the Rif, northern Morocco's highest mountains.
Surrounded on three sides by the Rif Mountains' foothills and rimmed on the fourth by turquoise Mediterranean waters, Al Hoceima is striking...