It's not every day you walk past whole lamb being cooked. Follow a tiny street that leads off the Djemâa el Fna (to the left of Les Terrasses de l'Alhambra) and you'll see exactly that. While the row of upstanding severed lambs' heads set upon tagines may not be everyone's idea of culinary heaven, Marrakshis love Chez Lamias Hadj, and you'd be missing out not to try it. Ask to see the oven—a hole in the ground where the entire animal is cooked over hot wood ash. The meat is then hauled up and cut in front of you, served with bread for a cheap 20 DH sandwich, or for larger amounts at 130 DH per kilogram. If you're nervous, ask for a small taste first. However much you have, sprinkle the meat with a delicious cumin-and-salt spice mix and wash it all down with mint tea. For a more adventurous experience, try the head (cheaper at 70 DH per kilogram) or the trotters. Get there between 11 AM and 12:30 PM.
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