Once home to Caid El Ayadi and his harem of 20 women, the main reason to stay at this pretty riad is to get up to the north of the medina. English-speaking Frenchwoman Christine Michel-Bouviala welcomes guests, with a free spread of mint tea, pastries, and pancakes every day at five. It's perhaps a little over-designed, but there's a rooftop pool and the location offers daily adventure. Take your time and wind your way down the derbs, watching the real medina at work far from the souk's hordes. It's also near the golf courses.
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