Stucco plasterwork in riad courtyards and above ornate medina doors isn't there simply for effect. Deep in the carvings are Arabic phrases, curving their lines into the fabric of the building forever. "Aneqsh" for example, means "on behalf of God," while other elegant writings hope for good health or guidance. To meet local artists and Arabic writing experts, and even learn a little of the beautiful calligraphy yourself, take a course with Marrakech Pulsations (6, Derb Sidi Abdelwsaa Ben Saleh. 066/30-43-46. www.marrakech-pulsations.com).
